Posted by
Nora Daly
Saturday, April 14, 2012 03:00 PM EDT
It's a strange experience, hearing about a runway show without actually seeing the collection. Kind of like taking an art history class in a room with a broken projector, a certain background and culture knowledge allows others words to take you only so far before a visual aid becomes necessary. I heard about Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2012 collection often. Always what was said was positive, and always reference was made to the 1920s influence. It seems last fall Marc dressed his models to attend Gatsby’s garden party, an aesthetic that enchanted the fashion world. My curiosity piqued, I took a look myself, and, a full-season late, now feel compelled to weigh in.
All the talk about allusions to the 1920s were present, but there was so much more happening within each look, so many different traces of eras past. I was amazed that most reviews had narrowed the collection down to a single historical reference point. True, the 1920s, drop-waist silhouette was the most overt of all Jacobs’ nods to the past, but it seems that flapper-esque fringe was in everyone’s eyes, preventing them from seeing, for example, the 1940s, embodied in those kitschy Rosie the Riveter bandanas and bobbysoxer inspired anklets.

Or the 1960s, which shone through in the boxy, Jackie O, tailored blazers, the turban and pillbox shaped headgear. Not to mention the feathered shift dress, skirts and shell tops, costumes that easily could have been lifted from a Doris Day movie.

The 1970s were also represented. They were present in the contrasting breast pockets on those square-cut jackets, which positively evoked the upper half of leisure suit. And there again in the western-style gingham button-ups that Jacobs paired with ladylike, knee-length skirts, but would have been at home over a pair of bell-bottoms.

The use of a shiny, bunched, almost plastic like fabric for many of the dresses evoked the avant-garde designers of the 1980s. A track jacket and a few cozy raglans were a wink in the direction of 80s sport couture (a retrospective reference that featured heavily in many designers’ work this season). Let’s not forget those adorable western style booties -- just add legwarmers.

The 90s were there as well, in a selection of sheer and semi-sheer slip dresses, stolen from the closet of the then 15-year-old Kate Moss.

All photos courtesy: style.com
By the last look, it seemed not a single decade in the past century missed its invitation to the party. The collection should be praised for its artful invocation of the 1920s, to be sure, but further credit is due to Jacobs for his masterful inclusion of such a diverse array of iconic styles from fashion’s rich archive. This was an achievement I felt the need to pay tribute to in an article that is now, appropriately, itself a reflection on the past.